Wednesday, October 31, 2007

I Can Resist Everything Except Temptation or: The Day I ate Enough To Feed A Small Village


In an effort to get to know the students on a more personal level, the Colgate professors have been inviting small groups of students to their flats for dinner. Last Sunday, John, Noah, Katy and I were summoned to the house of Michael Coyle & Kara (like Madonna, she needs no last name) for a good old Sunday night dinner with the art professor, Linn Underhill and her partner, Ann. We (the students) were too excited. A: home cooked meals are occasions that one should never be anything less than ecstatic about and B: it was a chance to “play house” i.e., pretend like we are grownups going to a dinner party rather than eating microwave meals at home and not showering. Oh wait. In an effort to show our gratitude and prove that we were classier than regular 20 year olds, we picked up wine and Candy Cakes (whimsical cupcakes that are really more like giant frosted muffins with candy) and hopped on the tube over to Coyle’s flat. In retrospect I regret bringing those diabetic nightmares because we all ended up slowing picking at them until they were gone and we were stuffed beyond comfort. Sorry for that sidenote. Ah yes… So, we were greeted with the delicious smells of simmering chicken Balti and warm bread (smells that I was deprived of as a child because I guess my mom never figured out where our stove is). After the four of us gushed our praises about the delicious smells coming from the kitchen, we were ushered into the living room where we drank wine, ate cheese and looked to our professors for the social clues that would tell us how to interact in an environment other then the classroom. I’m proud and honored to report that teachers do not live in their offices and actually want to talk about other subjects then literature and art! Go figure! In all seriousness, the eight of us were engaged in conversations that can be described as nothing less than scintillating. We talked and ate until we, I sheepishly admit, stayed until 11 pm (I think we are every hosts worst nightmare… guests that don’t know when to leave). At that point, I was trying to figure out how to discreetly unbutton my pants and then roll around on their living room floor because I was that full. I cannot stress enough how much all of us ate. I’m talking way worse than Thanksgiving. The sad part is- I think Noah and Katy ate more than I did and y’all know I can polish off a thing or two. I don’t even want to talk about it because I don’t want to remember how much I consumed because it’s embarrassing. What’s important is this: students + professors+ copious amounts of home cooked food= one my most favorite London nights thus far. It just worked- it was like an athlete being in “the zone”. There were never awkward pauses and the conversations ranged from funny, personal anecdotes to politics and world issues. Cheesy, yes, but magic it was.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Stranded in Stratford…









Yesterday we took a class trip (in the “fifth-grade class trip” sense of the action) to Stratford. This means that the Art and English kids boarded a bus at 9 am, professors in tow, and journeyed three hours from the cosmopolitan splendors of London to the quaint and historically preserved countryside of Stratford. Before I unleash my unquenchable cynicism, let me preface this post by saying that Stratford is a beautiful town with delicious candy stores and cute pubs. Ok, now that that’s over, let me give it to you straight. Stratford would be fun for two hours tops; unfortunately, we had nine hours there. Stratford is like Williamsburg with all the pretend houses, people and tourist traps. We were let loose in this historical playground, given 35 quid to keep out of trouble, to feed ourselves for the day and to please, please, please see where Shakespeare may or may not have grown up. It was hysterical- 30 college kids in this tiny town with NOTHING to do. So, being the elitist Colgate students we are, we improvised and did bloody well for ourselves and I mean, misery loves company so this was a fantastic bonding experience…

First stop: lunch! This killed about an hour and the food was good too. I had a baked potato with chili. It was tough choosing between the decadence of the traditional English menu. Good thing I like potato!

Second stop: Shakespeare’s Birth Museum. Yawn. We walked into an old house with pictures of pictures of the main man, Willly S. It was so authentic and inspiring I knelt down, kissed the floor and prayed to Shakespeare’s ghost to grant me with the gift of free flowing poetry. Slash the five of us moseyed through his little house and then left feeling like cultural sellouts but with greater knowledge of the meaning of the word “facsimile”.

Third stop: Anne Hathaway’s Tea Room. This cute little teahouse is situated in a 17th century Tudor house! We had tea with scones and my friends really got to appreciate how messy I can be! We’re talking milk spills, crumbs and tea in the hair. Inspired to act like good little children, we brushed up on our manors by drinking pinky up and talking in faux British accents.

Fourth stop: The Harvard House. The Harvard House is a museum dedicated to pewter. Seriously. Pewter! It is a collection of pewter cutlery, dishes and old curators. It is probably the worst place in the world, therefore, the most fun place we visited. I don’t think I have ever laughed so hard. John and Katy made fantastic pewter stamps- an activity designed for the “younger pewter enthusiasts” and Noah asked the curator the most absurd questions ever which means I was weeping with laughter in the corner. It was an educational experience and I’m very proud to report that I learned why pewter is shiny and resilient. Please forward any questions you may have on this sensational alloy to me.

Fifth stop: Gray Gable Pub. This pub, one of the oldest pubs in the world, was awesome! I tried mulled wine- warmed red wine with cinnamon, orange slices and lots of spices. I think the only way to describe this drink is cozy. We sat at this pub for a long time just talking. Such great atmosphere.

Then we braved the cold weather and saw where Shakespeare may have died. I have nothing to report on this.

Back to the pub for dinner.

Then off to see Henry the V, Shakespeare’s 3 ½ hour epic play at the Swan Theater. The first act was “dream like” cough. And the second act was “refreshing”.
I think that sums it up nicely.

We arrived in London a little after two am. The idea of my bed has never seemed so marvelous and London so promising. It’s good to be back in my home, my city bustling with commotion and activity. On the bus ride home, gliding through the jungle of buildings with my face pressed against the glass, I’m content, with out my ipod or book, to just watch London unfold around me...

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Full Frontal…. Absurdity?




I’m a boat person. Ever since I was little I remember being on my Grandfather’s boat, The Gusto, and absolutely loving it. So, when my professor informed us that we were going to be taking a cruise down the Thames River I was ecstatic. The weather was beautiful- a perfect, crisp English kinda day. I wore a light sweater, but being a seasoned sailor I threw in a scarf knowing how the wind can pick up on the water. However, as soon as we boarded our vessel the weather turned. And do I mean turned. The sky became completely overcast and started to mist. I do believe I experienced my first “English Fog”. It was miserable. My class and I were huddled together on the wooden plank seating, cursing the cold and the useless, touristy information the captain was pointing out to us along the way. It was ridiculous! Shamefully, I admit I wore my scarf like a turban with a connecting nose guard to help block out the cold. The 45 minute boat ride was 45 minutes too long but we made the best of it by making fun of all the people who “actually paid” to be here. Jolly fun.

Tonight I just came back from seeing, “Rhinoceros” a play written by Eugene Ionesco. Sparknotes version of the play: everybody in the entire town turns into a rhino except one guy (sorry if you’re coming to London to see this). Then a man got naked. Full frontal naked. And started running around onstage pretending to be a rhino. I’m not sure how I feel about all of this, needless to say it was entertaining. God bless the theater. This too was jolly fun.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

The Three-Day Honeymoon









YAY! Brittany, my college roommate, came to visit me! Britt, studying in Florence, flew to London for two days despite having two midterms on Monday- that is true love. When I picked her up from the tube it felt like camp visiting day when you first see your parents. We ran towards each other, hugging, jumping and overall causing a huge scene in Russell Square. Totally worth it because the Britt’s are so reserved.

Britt, never one to arrive empty handed, came bearing gifts of delicious Italian cake and wine- that we promptly devoured in my kitchen. The next morning, in my true tour guide fashion, Britt and I literally walked all over London. There are so many things to see that when you’re on my tour it’s more of a blitz tour than a leisurely experience. I know this is going to sound really dorky (it is) but I wore my pedometer to see how far we walked and we walked over six miles! Hot damn that’s far. Right. So Britt saw all the attractions. It was exhausting. Please, no more guests (just kidding Laura) I don’t think I’m in good enough shape to walk the entire city again.

Then after a delicious meal (are you sensing a trend) we saw Les Miserable. We had such amazing seats! So amazing that I now have full blown crushes on several of the actors. I can definitely speak for both of us- we loved every minute of the show. Loved it so much that we sang songs all the way back to my flat and then downloaded the soundtrack so we could sing more. How do we have friends? It is SHOCKING how embarrassing we can get.

Pretty much London was our culinary and cultural playground. We tried new foods at the Portobello Market, dined on dim sum on Charlotte Street, climbed on tanks at the Imperial War Museum, walked down the Thames River and perused Harrods and Harvey Nichols. The three days flew and saying goodbye was tough- not too tough because we are seeing each other again in Switzerland in two weeks. Suffer.

Monday, October 15, 2007

Czech Me Out, The Prague-blog, Prague-ably going to regret this title…








The entire time we were in Prague (excluding our tour of Terezin, the concentration camp) we were comparing the city to Disney World. There really is no other way to understand and compartmentalize how fascinatingly beautiful and diverse the architecture, the city, and the landscape are. The huge castles, churches and bridges look exactly like everything Walt, the main man himself, king of the magic, wanted to achieve. However, as breathtaking as the city itself is, the swarms of tourists were not. Disclaimer- I am not a tourist. I am a traveler. There is a huge difference (or so I tell myself). I do not want to buy ugly tee shirts and fake Czech glass, nor do I want to eat at Burger King or from a deliciously marketed “Tourist Menu”. I was frustrated walking around because this remarkable, once pristine city, is tainted and somewhat cheapened by these so-called tourist attractions. Luckily, our guide knew how much we hated the masses and took us to more remote, less populated areas. London is touristy, and god bless that for the economy, but London is significantly bigger so you don’t feel like you are constantly waiting on line to go on a rollercoaster. Don’t get me wrong- Prague is fantastic but it was too crowded for me. I wanted to feel exotic for traveling to central Europe but really, I just felt like I was visiting the 6th most visited European city (it is…).

Terezin, the concentration camp, is definitely one of the most memorable places I have ever been. Hindsight- I’m so glad I went because I badly did not want to go... and I mean badly. My philosophy is, I’m on vacation therefore, I don’t want to be upset. But, my parents, masters of vacation planning and insight, thought it was something I needed to experience. And an experience it was. Terezin is eerie. It is one of the only concentration camps that was left untouched. The inscription “ Arbeit Macht Frei” or 'Work Will Set You Free" marked our journey into the walled camp. Once inside, everything was exactly as it was 60 years ago- the wooden bunk beds, the crematorium, the cells- and we were free to wander in and out of these different rooms. As cliché as it is, the only way to describe it is that it was surreal. I felt desensitized because I actually cannot understand how people could hate that much- I couldn’t comprehend so I wandered, in a daze, around the sight where over tens of thousands died.

After leaving Terezin, we came back to Prague and explored around the castle district. I was so fried from the morning that I don’t think I appreciated the castle area as much as I could have.

The trip, all 11 days of it, was fantastic. Saying goodbye to my parents in the airport was sad because our vacation was so much fun. No squabbles except that they told me I needed to bathe more… and I mean that’s nothing new. Back to the grind of London now. Poor me.

Sunday, October 14, 2007

Things I’ve Learned



1. Hungary, although land locked, is extremely proud of their natural hot springs and baths. They advertise that dipping in their springs will help the infertile become fertile, the paralyzed to walk again, the acne-prone to become beautified, and my own personal belief- help healthy Americans contract E coli.
2. There is a large sculpture of a horse in the center of Budapest. This horse, old and rust colored, has very shiny testicles. When we asked our guide about this strange dichotomy on the horse, without a beat she replied that it brings luck to all who rub the horse’s balls. Delicious.
3. Goose Liver is Hungarian National dish. My father, trying to prove he is somewhat manly, ordered the “Goose Liver Trilogy”. No, this isn’t some spoof on the Lord of the Rings; rather it is a disgusting appetizer composed of liver three different ways. There was the crème brule liver, the seared liver, and for the finale-- the foie gras. When in Hungary…
4. Hungarian currency makes me feel like a king. There are about 250 Forents to the dollar. I was droppin’ 100,000 Forents like it wasn’t nothin’.
5. Don’t ask about the Hungarian alliance with Germany during WWII. It doesn’t make for a good conversation starter.

Talk to the Hand.


Back in Budapest…

One of the national treasures of Budapest, I kid you not, is the preserved right-hand of Hungary’s patron saint, St. Stephen. Canonized by the pope for converting the heathen pagans, St. Stephen died in the 12th century. However, when grave robbers dug up his grave, holies of holies, miracle of miracles, his entire body had decomposed except his disgusting, mummified right hand. The pope deemed it a miracle and to this day, in St. Stephen’s Right Hand Chapel, attached to St. Stephen’s Basilica, his hand is on a red velvet cushion in a glass box on display. Our tour guide proudly pointed out his intact finger nails, tendons, and flesh while I tried not to breathe for fear I would somehow inhale some ancient particle of this guy’s hand. What a strange country. On St. Stephen’s Day, the holiest day of the year, believers parade around with the glass box, home of the decrepit wrist. My father, behind the guide's back, started singing the Adam’s Family Theme song. Overall, we are a cultured and accepting family.

Budapest




President Clinton and I are now “Budapest” best friends. We’re staying at the same hotel, eating at the same restaurants, and heck, we even live in the same town back home. Highlight of highlights- I shook his hand! As much as I loved the personal contact, I was quick to whip out my portable bottle of Purel immediately afterwards. You never know what type of germs get passed along from all of that hand-to-hand contact (Clinton is a notorious handshaker). Regardless of my germ fear, it has been very cool bumping into him frequently although I could do without his entire security detail closing down roads and messing up the flow of post-Communist living here in Budapest. Anyway, when he shook my hand he asked where I was studying. Nervously, I stuttered about my semester abroad in London. Impressed, he told me that London is a very “accessible city”. In my star-struck state all I could do was rapidly nod my head and awkwardly smile. I should never run for a political office- I do badly when meeting people of power. One time in New York City I saw Jay Z, my all-time favorite rap artist, and I was so excited/ nervous that I couldn’t move. Instead, more maturely, I gaped at him. I’m sure he could tell that I was a huge fan and not some girl with a debilitating illness.

And if the jellied eels don’t tickle your fancy maybe the fish head soup will….



Now that my parents are here my gastronomic possibilities have expanded exponentially. After a very long day of touring (we hit the British Museum, Sir John Soane’s Museum, the Tate Britain, Neal’s Yard, Covent Garden, Westminster, Leicester Square and Piccadilly) we were ready for a delicious meal. Side note- after I wrote out all of the places we went I was very impressed. Who needs a week in a London when I can show you everything in one day?! I may start my own “bidness”- a fast walking tour of London… the weak need not apply. Moving on (literally). The concierge sent us to J. Sheeky’s, a very British restaurant specializing in fish, for our pre-theater dinner. When I first saw the restaurant I was slightly apprehensive because, I kid you not, the doorman was Charlie Chapman reincarnated. Clearly we made fun of him under our breath as he opened the door for us. Inside, and seated comfortably next to a really ugly, British man with eight chins and his equally handsome wife, we perused the menu. Nothing, I repeat nothing, sounded good. As you all know, for me not to see one item that looks good is pretty difficult. I do not like jellied eels, fish head soup, fried skate and pretty much everything else they were offering. Too embarrassed to leave, we ordered salted sea bass for two and Dover sole. I was mad. This was my chance to eat out and enjoy the high life of London with my parents but instead we were stuck in this haunted house for fish. But in the end the three of us were BLOWN away. Best, most fantastically marvelous fish we’ve ever had. Moral of the story: don’t judge a menu by its jellied eel special.

After the magic we were driven over (yes, the restaurant arranged a car. They can do fish and service. Go figure). We saw Billy Elliot the musical. It was the 1000 performance! Mazel Tov, Billy!

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Blog-Lite





1. Kara is alive and well.
2. The Parents are in London!!!!!!
3. I'm off to Prague/Budapest & Vienna on friday
4. I have a video- chat camera thing now! It is as creepy as it sounds but that means you can all see me from abroad! Hurrah! It's mounted on my computer and I can now video skype... if you're interested.
5. I discovered a REALLY cool sneaker store outside of Covent Garden. Yes, I got another pair of Nike Dunks. And yes, they are the coolest things ever.
6. London has a China Town. Go figure.